![]() ![]() Why don't you pop around to my workshop some time and check out a few of the builds I have, based on Direct Drive motors, One front and a couple of rear drives, even a side mount brushed example? ![]() Idealy, you find one used at about $100, and put $50 into it for a good bike. In the USA, a Trek 820 retails at a bike shop at around $350. New, at the wallmart or AU equivialnt, price range tends to be in the 250 USD range when bought in the USA. But the more expensive alloy frames might be trying too hard to be light to make good candidates for a motor and it's torque plate. Steel bikes, because they are cheaper in general, tend to come with big flat dropouts. You need some flat space around the dropout to bolt on a good rear torque arm, or homemade torque plate. Avoid a frame with a really lightened up and lacy looking rear dropout. If you do get alloy, then look for as large and flat a space as possible at the rear dropout. The more room for the battery the better. The main thing you are looking for is a larger frame triangle space. 40 mm steel shock forks are pretty bad except for riding on pretty new roads.įrame can be steel or alloy, but there are alloy frames to steer away from. Shock front fork, ( you want the motor in back) but look for 80 mm travel. Mechanical junk disks ok, anything can be upgraded later if you at least have the mount right? Rim brakes still ok so long as the disk mounts are there. ![]() You'll find the triggers more compatible with a throttle than twist.ĭisk brake mounts, if not actual disk brakes. So that means trigger shifters on the brake handles rather than super cheeze twist grip shifters. Good quality components, not best, not worst. or sooner.īut it's not a bad idea to hunt a bit more, perhaps on the used market, for a better quality bike that is steel.ħ speed, or less. It really will fall apart in just a few thousand miles. DO NOT go with a bike that cheap just to get steel. ![]()
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